Eliminate the Conditions that Promote Weeds

• Compaction – Compaction is an invitation for weeds. If your lawn is hard, compacted, and full of weeds, aerate to help air, water and fertilizer to enter. If you can’t stick a screwdriver easily into your soil, it is too compacted. Get together with your neighbors and rent an aerator. Once you have an established, healthy lawn, worms and birds pecking at your soil will aerate it for free!


• Mowing Height – Bad mowing practices cause many lawn problems. Mowing lower than 1 ½ to 1 ¾ inches can kill the root system by preventing photosynthesis, and mowing with a dull blade makes the turf susceptible to disease. A low mowing height also invites sunlight in for weeds to sprout.While grass species vary across the country, most lawns are a mix of kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue. Generally, you should keep a lawn at 3- 3 ½ inches. Mowing high allows the grass to develop deeper, drought-resistant roots systems. For the first and last cut of the season, mow to 2 inches. Do not mow more than 1/3 of the grass blade at a time. Keep your mower blades sharp to prevent the development and spread of fungal disease, or ask your service provider to sharpen their blades frequently.


• Soil pH and Soil Testing – Low pH means acidic conditions and high pH indicates alkaline conditions. If the pH is too high, your grass cannot properly absorb nutrients. Ideal pH should be between 6.5-7.0, slightly acidic. Thriving dandelions indicate a pH of about 7.5.Generally, lime is added to raise the pH and sulfur is added to lower the pH, and adding compost can naturally correct your pH. A soil test is highly recommended to determine the soil pH and specific nutrient needs. Contact your extension service to find out how to take a soil sample. In addition to nutrients and pH analysis, ask for organic content analysis, and request organic care recommendations. Organic content should be 5% or higher.


• Fertility - Soil testing is the best way to determine your soil’s specific nutrient needs. Fertilizing in early fall ensures good growth and root development for your grass. Nitrogen, the most abundant nutrient in lawn fertilizers promotes color and growth. Adding too much nitrogen, or quick-release synthetic fertilizers, can weaken the grass, alter the pH, promote disease, insect, and thatch build-up. Your grass clippings contain 58% of the nitrogen added from fertilizers, improve soil conditions, suppress disease, and reduce thatch and crabgrass. So, leave the clippings on your lawn. You can use a mulching mower and leave the leaves too.

Compost is an ideal soil conditioner, adding the much-needed organic content to your soil, and suppressing many turf pathogens. In the fall and spring, preferably after aerating, spread ¼ inch layer of organic or naturally-based compost over your lawn. Compost tea and worm castings are also great additions. Look for compost or organic slow release fertilizers at your local nursery or order online. Some fertilizers, such as Ringer® Lawn Restore®, are certified by the Organic Materials Review Institute, http://www.saferbrand.com/. Other makers include North Country Organics, http://www.norganics.com/; Harmony Farm http://www.harmonyfarm.com/; Peaceful Valley Farm Supply, http://www.groworganic.com/